Crockfords Casino in Mayfair, reputed to be the oldest gaming club in the world, is not the first place you might consider in London for lunch or dinner.
But I had one of the best meals in a long time at the Crockfords restaurant this week. I am talking Michelin Star quality, easily as good as and probably better than Chez Bruce, my favourite and local 'smart' restaurant.
Crockford's will not suit everyone but will pleasantly surprise many. Let me give you the guided tour... Top hatted doorman greets you at the entrance and shows you into the reception area. Pretty receptionist asks whether you are a club member (you don't need to be to eat in the restaurant) and shows you into the bar area where you can enjoy an aperitif, peruse the extensive menu (more about that soon), and consult the fine wine list and the very fine wine list (more about those soon too). The restaurant is upstairs and divided into three sections.
Opulence abounds - high ceilings, beautiful decorations, thick curtains, more chandeliers than you can poke with a stick. This is British through and through and I imagine impresses the high rollers that enjoy the gaming action at the club. It is slightly intimidating upon first impressions, but the waiting staff make you feel very comfortable and are friendly, jokey and not at all stuffy.
Three of us were shown to a large round table in the corner and settled in for dinner. Crisp white napkins and table-cloths, beautiful crockery, heavy cutlery, silver salt and pepper pots and at least 4 waiters primed to get the show on the road. At this point I was wondering whether the food would match the surroundings. I had nothing to worry about...
We started with an amuse-bouche of Lobster Bisque with white truffle, served in tight small white teacups. The bisque was a flavour explosion, very rich, very creamy and very moresome. I have over-salted versions in the past but this was spot on. My starter was a fresh crab and avocado salad, beautifully presented and equally delicious. The avocado was a point and the crab was as fresh as I have ever tasted (and not a single piece of shell to be found). My colleagues dishes of Dim Sum and Spinach Souffle were equally well presented with the Souffle scoring top marks but the Dim Sum described as a little disappointing.
Let me tell you a little more about the menu - the choice is enormous and initially caused concern. How can a kitchen manage to produce hundreds of different dishes with different cuisines without compromising quality? The answer is at Crockfords they have separate specialist chefs for each cuisine. In addition to some excellent traditional British choices, there is a huge selection of Italian, Thai, Indian and Middle Eastern dishes on offer. Crockfords can literally cater to every taste.
Dishes are reasonably priced considering the location and surroundings (you are effectively in a private members club), with starters around £14 and mains between £20 and £40. Puddings are around £10. Certainly high, but well worth it when you see the quality of the dishes produced. I have listed some examples below to give you a better understanding of prices: Mushroom Soup, £7
Fois Gras & Duck terrine, £17
Avocado, Tomato & Fresh Crab Salad, £14.50
Steak & Kidney Pie, £21
Dover Sole, £24.50
Fillet of Turbot, £25.50
For main course I had a whole roasted poulet with a simple gravy and a side of dinky new potatoes, simple but tasty. One colleague went East and tried a king prawn dish with a side of Pad Thai, both of which were filling portions and excellent. My other colleague had a medium rare steak, cooked to perfection that just melted in the mouth. Top ingredients are used throughout, portion sizes are very good and presentation is spot on.
We initially chose a bottle of Chateau Cantenac, a St Emillion Grand Cru 2001, which is a good solid bet and reasonably priced at £45, but they were out of the 2001 and instead of 2005, offered us a 2001 alternative, priced the same that was smooth and very gluggable. It was decanted well before we sat down and had opened up nicely thirty minutes later. The fine wine list has an excellent selection of wines from the £25 to the £325 price range. The very fine wine list has some pricier options.
Knowing that one of the specials that night was a home-made Panna Cotta by the Italian chef that I was not about to turn down, I had sensibly saved a little room for dessert. The pudding trolley that was wheeled around to our table was packed with treats and clearly the pastry chef had gone to town. Everything literally looked too good to eat. I stuck with the Cotta, which wobbled delightful on the middle of my glass plate, drizzled with a light raspberry dressing.
A tray of tempting chocolates was proffered with coffee but by that point we were all too full to manage anything else.
The service throughout the meal was excellent and I genuinely could not find fault with food or service; it is truly a slick operation.
The only slight disappointment was the fact that aside from our table there was one other party dining, which meant that the atmosphere was a little lacking, but it depends on the night and the timing, with the restaurant open round the clock to cater to local and international gamers needs, it will always show an ebb and flow.
In summary, Crockfords deserves to be known for more than its casino; this is a restaurant that they are proud of and that would make an excellent venue for business lunches and dinners or for special occasions. You are treated like royalty from start to finish and get to experience the lavish surroundings of one of the most famous private members clubs in the world.
With the more relaxed gaming rules now in place in UK clubs, it is now possible to become a member on the night and join the Crockfords high rollers on the gaming floor if you are that way inclined and I am sure that you would be equally well looked after.
Knowing now that the restaurant experience is such a safe bet, maybe I will try my luck on the Roulette and Blackjack tables next time I visit!
